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Page 52
Comments & Replies
  If you enjoy reading the Comments and Replies on this page, you may also enjoy listening to The Bailey Brothers, DrTom and Nevin, discuss similar questions on Pet Fish Talk.

Click here to see the list of all the Pet Fish Talk Shows.


Customer Comments

I recently purchased my first two fish . A black moore and a pond commet which I later learned were no compatable. The pond commet died ... I now have the black Moore in a tank with an oranda . I was wondering if you could tell me if they are compatable .
I also have another question . When I feed the fish I am giving them what they can handle in 5 minutes. they eat it and they seem to be trying to eat everything in site , plastic, pebbles etc. I was wondering if you had any advice .
Thanks a lot .
Reply. Hello Blake. Your Black Moor and Oranda are both compatible members of the group of Goldfish that we call Fancy Goldfish.

Click here for more information about Fancy Goldfish, where you will read that Fancy Goldfish like your Black Moor and Oranda are not compatible with Pond Comets, which swim faster, eat most of the food, and often nip on Fancy Goldfish.

You should feed your two Fancy Goldfish at least twice a day.

Click here for more information about feeding Fancy Goldfish, where you'll read that small Fancy Goldfish under 3" should be fed floating flake food at least twice a day.

Be sure the flakes are labeled for Goldfish and not for Tropical Fish.

We also recommend feeding Goldfish a few Live Black Worms every other day. Click here for more about Live Black Worms.


Customer Comments

Dear sir,
I have a 8' X 20' X 6' deep pond. It is always green & mossy , I have a Filtering  system , a water fall that falls 5'over rocks, I have 25 potted water lilies, 5 flooting Hyacines, and other floating flowering plants,  2 potted cattails this year, it's still green and mossy. I have three trout, snails, frogs, cradads, dragon flies, all kinds of birds to bathe and water.
What is wrong with this picture? What needs to be done ? I heard that a small bail of barley straw would clear this up, if so,  how would this work? Please e-mail me back!
Thank you, 
Marcella H,
Irwin Idaho, Idaho 83428 

Reply. Hello Marcella. The green mossy stuff in your pond is algae, which is a plant. The best way to get rid of algae in ponds is to change more water.

Click here for more information about getting rid of algae.


Customer Comments

how can i tell if an angelfish is healthy at the store? And do your website have a page about angelfish?
Reply. Hello. Here are some things to look for at the store, when you buy an Angelfish.

(1) Check all the aquariums in the store. If the water is cloudy, foamy, or smelly in any of the aquariums, do not buy fish in that store.

If there are dead fish in any of the aquariums, do not buy fish. I don't buy fish from stores that neglect any of their aquariums.

(2) Go back to the aquarium with Angelfish. Double check that aquarium. Make sure the water is crystal clear. Make sure there is no foam on the surface of the water.

If there are bubbles on the surface of the water, those bubbles should pop in a few seconds. If the bubbles sit on the surface of the water for several seconds, do not buy fish from that aquarium.

(3) Ask an employee in the store to scoop some water from the aquarium into a clear catching container.

If that water is tinted yellow, or brown, or any color, do not buy fish from that aquarium. Aquarium water should not be tinted, which indicates the water is old and stale.

(4) Now look carefully at all the fish in the aquarium with the Angelfish. Do you see any clamped fins, ick spots, sores, or any fish crashed on the bottom?

If so, these are Signs of Stress and Disease. Do not buy fish from an aquarium, where any of the fish show Signs of Stress and Disease.

Click here for more details about the Signs of Stress and Disease.

(5) Finally look carefully at the Angels. Be sure their fins are spread away from their bodies and not clamped or held against their bodies.

The belly area of every Angel should be full and rounded, not caved in and hollow.

(6) Hold your hand above the front of the aquarium, do not touch anything, but just move your hand gently back and forth a few inches above the water to simulate feeding the Angels.

The Angels should rush to surface of the water just below your hand.

(7) Finally choose your favorite Angelfish from those in the aquarium. Choose an Angel that has a body that is at least the size of a 25? piece. Smaller Angels are fragile, and often don't do well after being moved.

(8) Be sure the Angel you buy is put a large bag that is at least 12" tall after being sealed, and be sure the bag has at least 4" of water and at most 6" of water.

Click here for more information about how fish should be properly bagged.

(9) Take that bag with fish directly home to your aquarium. Do not stop to do other shopping. Always make shopping online for fish your last stop, before you go home.

(10) Click here for information about how to prepare your aquarium, before you go shopping online for fish.

Click here for information about how put new fish into your aquarium.

picture of a Marbled Veil Tail Angel.   Here is a picture of a beautiful Veil Tailed Marbled Angel. This fish has a body about the size of a 25? piece and it's fins are not clamped or held against it's body. This would be a very good Angelfish to buy.

Click here for more about Angelfish.

Yes we do have a page about Angelfish, and on that page is information about the appropriate aquarium, compatible tank mates, proper food, maximum size, and lifespan.

Click here now to go to that page about Angelfish in this website.


Customer Comments

I've just found your great website but I am having problems finding specific advice about lowering nitrates in my tank.
I bought a new filter for my aquarium last week and since then the nitrates have gone sky high in my tank - several fish have died in the last 3-4 days.
I have done a 60% water change because the problem is so bad and (on advice from my local fish shop) added some Ammo Lock 2 into the new water (I'm not sure why she recommended that I do that because I don't have an ammonia problem, but nevertheless I put it in as she said it would help).  Straight after the 60% water change I tested the nitrate level again and it is still high.  I have added 5 or 6 new plants to the aquarium but am now at a loss what to do.
Do I just sit and wait?  Do I keep changing water every day until my test read better levels.  How long should it take to stabilise the nitrate levels? Is there anything else I could be doing?  How did this all get to be so important in my life?
Any advice you could give me would be much appreciated.
Reply. Hello Hannah. I doubt nitrates caused the death of your fish. Nitrates are not very toxic and not very poisonous to most fish. Nitrates are the natural product of biological filtration in aquariums.

Click here read more about biological filtration and nitrates.

Be sure you are testing for nitrates, because if you meant nitrites, they can be a serious problem.

But the beneficial bacteria in a biological filter quickly oxidize nitrites (NO2?) to nitrates (NO3?), which are much less toxic than nitrites and usually not a problem.

On this website we recommend changing 20% of the aquarium water twice each week. These water changes dilute the nitrates and keep the concentration of nitrates low.

Click here to read more about partial water changes.

Changing more than 20% of an aquariums water on one day can be risky to your fish, even if you add a water conditioner.

Click here for more about water conditioners.

In a few cases high nitrates have been caused by nitrate minerals in gravel or rocks. If your aquarium has rocks or gravel, be sure they were labeled for use in aquariums.

Everything you put in your aquarium should have been labeled for use in aquariums. If you have doubts about any object in your aquarium, remove that object.

Click here for more about how to avoid contaminating your aquarium.


Customer Comments

I enjoyed your site.  My son has the Regent Starfish tank  that uses a bi0-wheel and we love it.  Less mess and clean up.  I hate gravel filters!!!  He wants a bigger tank and I would love to surprise him at Christmas.

What would be a good tank to upgrade to between 10-20-gallons?  I could not find the Regent website but you seem to imply that others make a bio wheel tank as well.
Thanks for the information.
Leoni D.

Reply. Hello Leoni. A 10 to 15-gallon aquarium is a nice size for children.

You could buy a very inexpensive Marineland Penguin 75, but I would buy the bigger slightly more expensive Penguin 100.

This makes a a nice combination. It will be inexpensive, and it's in the size range that you mentioned.

Another choice is to buy an Eclipse Aquarium Hood like the one I have.

Click here to see my aquarium with an Eclipse #2.

All the Eclipse Aquarium Hoods come with a built-in BIO-Wheel.

Click here to see two close-up pictures of the BIO-Wheel in my Eclipse 2.

I bought the Eclipse 2, and put it on a so-called 30-gallon high aquarium.

My 30-gallon aquarium with the Eclipse 2 is the best aquarium that I've ever owned, and I highly recommend it.

Incidentally the Galaxy and the Eclipse are both made in the same building and are of the same quality. They are just sold under different names.

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